Sunday, December 23, 2012

Georgetown

With beautiful weather, light winds from the west, we left Cambridge Cay and headed out into Exhuma Sound for a day of travel, all the way to Georgetown, the big town in these parts.  Georgetown is the largest town in the Exhuma chain, where cruisers base themselves for the winter.  There is an airport there, and during the winter over 400 boats will anchor in between the town and stocking cay in a protected harbor.  We spent Christmas week there with less than 100 boats.  We visited the store, stocking up on some needed fruits and vegetables.  However we were just now getting low.  We had provisioned well before leaving the Marina in Marathon.  We only needed fresh fruits and veggies.  We still have plenty of canned and frozen.  The supermarket in town is nice.  And has a nice selection of food and good looking produce.   The prices are at least double in the US, but we are in the Bahamas after all.  To get into town, the favored dock is past a small 8 foot wide bridge.  At high tide we can’t make it under the bridge in the new tender.  It is only 8 feet high at low tide, and then we can make it under. IMG_8273

One day David lowered the dinghy in the water to go to town to the hardware store.  He, Calvin, Isabel, and Madison headed out for an afternoon off the boat.  The battery on the dinghy didn’t work earlier, so it had been on the charger all morning.  They made it into town.  They looked around and asked where the hardware store was.  They hitchhiked the few miles out to the hardware store and got what they needed, and hitch hiked back.  They met some friendly people.  After loading themselves back into the dinghy they undid the lines from the dock, and then tried to start it.  It wouldn’t start, the battery was dead.  They made it back to the dock by using their arms to paddle and then called me on the VHF.  Luckily I was listening and heard them call.  I offered to come rescue them with the tender.  David wanted me to look for the jumper cables to bring with me to try and jumpstart the battery.  I couldn’t find them, so Benjamin and I set out to rescue them and tow the dinghy back.  By the time I made it across the harbor in the tender, they had managed, with the help of the tide and current, to paddle their way outside of the bridge, so I wouldn’t need to pass thru it.  We got them on board the tender, and towed the dinghy back to the boat.  The next day, David and I went to town and bought a new battery for the dinghy so we won’t be having that experience again. 

Georgetown has a Library that we visited another day.  The kids enjoyed picking out a few new books to read for the next few days that we would be there. 

Anchored nearby us was a mega, mega yacht.  Over 200 feet long, and really more ship than yacht.  Again I find it interesting to see such pricy and fancy boats at anchor rather than a marina.  And again I am reminded that they have no choice, other than anchor, but still it is odd.  IMG_8250

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We have enjoyed beautiful sunsets every night.  We have also enjoyed the opportunity to get to know some of the other boaters spending winter here.  Some were headed to the eastern Caribbean like us, others have already been there and done that.  It was nice to hear highlights of what to do or not to do. And it was good to make some friends we may see along the way.

Friday, December 21, 2012

Snorkeling Day

While at Cambridge Cay we spent a day snorkeling the area.  We went to several different spots in the area and had a great time.  The first place we went to was called the Sea Aquarium.  It is very aptly named.  It is this little sheltered grotto.  I was the first to hop in and was just surrounded by little fish.  I have snorkeled a lot but have never been surround by so many.  I didn’t know where to put my hands or how to move, afraid I was going to hit them, which is silly since with the flow of the water they just move out of the way, but they were everywhere, I felt crowded.  The kids hopped in next.  Because it is just a little area, we put out a rope tied to the boat for the kids to just hold onto and keep their heads looking in the water.  No need to worry about them floating away and all the fish are just right there in one spot.  Benjamin really enjoyed it!

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Matthew and Alexander stayed in tender watching and sleeping while we enjoyed the water below.  David and I took turns hanging out with them in the boat.

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Another snorkel stop was at a light plane about 20 feet in the water.  The current was ripping thru so only a few of us got in to see the plane below.  We were able to hold on to the mooring ball line to keep us from floating away. 

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The kids were done snorkelling so Madison and I did a few drift snorkels on the way back to the boat.  We saw 2 different sting rays swimming along, an spotted eagle ray, and a southern sting ray.  I was hoping to find a turtle but didn’t till later…

Later when the little kids were ready for naps, we put them down in their beds on the boat, and Savannah stayed to babysit, while David, Madison, Calvin, and I headed over to the Rocky Dundas to snorkel.  We had to wait till slack tide to snorkel here, which was late afternoon.  The reef outside is pretty, and then you can snorkel thru the hole in the cay and into 2 different caves.  They were fun to snorkel around in.  We saw some cool fish we hadn’t seen before.  Along the reef outside the cays we saw a beautiful stand of Elk horn Coral. 

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After the caves, David dropped Calvin, Madison, and I off for a drift snorkel.  After a bit Calvin said he was ready to head out to the boat.  I coaxed him into snorkeling a little further, to the end of the reef area.  And just before we met up with the boat we saw a turtle!  It was a little guy, maybe 2 ft, swimming along.

Thursday, December 20, 2012

Cambridge Cay

After a few days at Waderick Wells Cay we moved 15 miles to the south end of the Land and Sea Park to Cambridge Cay.  We had to wind our way around Bell Cay to get into the anchorage.  There is either a very expensive home or small hotel located on Bell Cay with a beautiful beach and blue waters all around.  It was a scenic journey to the anchorage.  Again, this park anchorage did not disappoint.  It is just so beautiful here!  It was so calm in this snug mooring field surrounded by little cays.  While Waderick Wells has astounding beauty, when the tide was up our boat would roll.  So to move to this gorgeous mooring field and have it be so flat and calm was perfection!  We enjoyed the sunset after getting set up. 

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While at Cambridge Cay we spent an afternoon at the beach, walking and playing with Jesse and enjoying the scenery.

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Benjamin played in the sand while we walked around and explored.  He built himself a volcano and wrote a note:

“Vockano!  No Going in!”

After reading his note, we decided he needed to be writing more in his school work.  No more one word journal entries, he was definitely ready to move on to at least 1 sentence.

 

Below is a shell Savannah picked up with a beautiful crab living in to.  She placed it back in the shallow water on its back.  We watched the crab poke its head out and back in its shell looking for danger.  He did this over and over, until he finally flipped himself and his shell over.  It was fun to watch.

 

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Calvin and his mega volcano.

Swimming Pigs

 

While staying at Cambridge Cay we took the tender 10 miles south to Staniel Cay.  Staniel is a big stop for most boaters, and it has a large anchorage area that can fit a lot of boats.  We were planning to bypass it when we move further south, so we thought we would take the tender down instead for a morning to see the swimming pigs. 

IMG_7998lFrom the anchorage there are 3 beaches.  The south beach has 4 or 5 pigs that live on it.  They were brought there by a local.  Over time they learned that the boaters would bring them food and they learned to swim out to the dinghy’s that would approach the beach.  When we arrived another tender had taken their scraps ashore so the pigs were busy eating already.  We waited a bit and toured the anchorage looking at the boats anchored there including a 100 ft mega yacht.  It is always fun to see a fancy yacht at anchor, usually we only see them at a marina, but in this part of the world there aren’t any marina’s for mega yachts, or regular boats, so we all anchor together.  It reminds me why we are travelling on a boat… there are some parts of the world, that a boat is the only way to see them, and the Exhuma’s is one of those places.  It is so worth the effort of travelling by boat to see.

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We circled back around and 2 of the pigs ventured out to see us.  They swim like dogs, same sort of movement.  We had brought some bread ends that we had left over, but they didn’t seem to like my homemade bread, I guess they are a bit of food snobs. 

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Saturday, December 15, 2012

Exuma Land and Sea Park—WOW!

This place is amazingly beautiful!  I loved the northern Exhumas, and thought “can it get any better than this?”  YES it can!  As we have travelled and met fellow boaters or read boater blogs or books, we had noticed that many of them will say out of all the places they have been, the Exhuma’s are their favorite.  Now we know why… it is just so beautiful here.  The water colors are incredible, the clarity is amazing, and it is quiet and serene.  The snorkeling is great, there are sharks and rays everywhere we anchor.  The sand is beautiful.  The islands are a little hilly which makes for beautiful scenery.  There are no big cities, or towns or much of people at all, other than our fellow boaters.  It is heavenly.IMG_7837

In the Northern half of the Exhuma’s is the Exhuma Land and Sea Park.It incorporates all the Cays within a 22 mile range north to south.  Our first stop in the park, was Shroud Cay, en route to Waderick Wells Cay, the park Headquarters, I made a separate post for that stop.  We continued on to Wederwick Wells Cay for a few days stay.  We were going to stay in the Emerald Rock mooring field, but after looking at the weather a few days out, we decided to stay in the north mooring field for a little more protection from south winds in a few days.   It seems to me the north mooring field is the preferred site, and I know why, you could just sit on your boat all day and admire the view.  The Emerald rock field isn’t the same, but still beautiful.  The north field has a few sandbars that appear at low tide, which changes the water color and taking it all in, it is just breathtaking.  In fact just after we arrived and got settled, Calvin and Isabel set out to reach the sandbars via boogie board from our boat.  It was fun watching them figure out how to overcome the current that was running against them.  It was a good lesson for them on how to swim across the current not directly into it.  Then you can reach your destination.  It took them awhile, but they did reach the sandbar to play, and then it was an easy float back to the boat with the current carrying them mostly our way.  They had to stayed aimed for the front of our boat so that they wouldn’t get swept past the boat and have to fight the current back up to the boat.IMG_7696

Now… to the harrowing story of how we got there…  As we headed towards the entrance of the mooring field, we stopped to pull in our tender, we actually were planning on still towing it in, but at 30 feet behind instead of 150 feet behind.  As David pulled in the lines we were drifting and ended up with the tender off our port side.  David told me to head forward and as I did a part of the tow line from the very front of the tender was sucked into our port prop and yanked the tender right into the side of our boat.  we now have a nice scratched up 1 square foot area that will need to be gel coated and painted.  Along with a few scratches down the side.  So there we are the tender pinned to the side of the boat… I but the engines back in neutral and look over the side to see what happened, I’m driving from the top and only heard the tender hit us, I hadn’t seen what happened.  Savannah came running to tell me to turn off the engines because Dad was jumping in the water to see if he can pull the line out of the prop.  So now we’re engines off and drifting, and thank goodness it was about slack tide or we would have drifted faster.  Savannah and I kept an eye on where we were drifting towards.  I decided we should put out our anchor, so I confirmed with David, and then Calvin and I headed off to drop the anchor so at least we’d stop drifting and not end up in a shallow are, or worse—on the rocks.   All of this is quite stressful for me. 

With the anchor out David decided to grab the oxygen tank to see if he could get a better look at the prop with out coming up for air every minute or so.  Meanwhile we tried to stuff some fenders between the tender and our boat to minimize the scraping occurring as we rolled around in the waves.  We weren’t in a protected area, but open to the waves from the banks.  It wasn’t deep or big waves, but enough to move us around quite a bit.  Finally David realized he would just have to cut the line to get the tender off and we’d have to worry about the port prop later, the line was tightly wound in it.  So we cut the line.  We secured the tender so we could tow it on the hip of the boat, and got ready to head into the mooring field with only our starboard engine working.  We have run on one engine before, but never with the tender attached at the side and we noticed the drastic pull the tender had on us with only one engine working.  We hoped we would be okay as we made our way through the mooring field.  I was driving us in, and hoped it would be calm and easy to get thru the mooring field since it is protected from wind on most sides.  However, with it being low tide, the way thru the field was tight, the current was running thru strong, so I had David take over driving, I was too nervous.  We had to make a turn and as we approached there was another trawler on a mooring ball there, right where we needed to turn.  We had to decide whether to go behind the trawler and turn and go in front. We didn’t have long to decide, it was windy and the strong current was pulling on the boat.  The owner of the other trawler came out on deck and suggested we go in front of him as it is shallow to the side we were on, and with the current we might get run into the rocks behind him.  With the little engine control we had, David managed to back us up between the trawler and the sailboat on the mooring ball in front of the trawler.  I stood on the back deck watching and telling him where the other sailboat was and how close to the sand bar he was getting.  He did it though, we got a way with out any incidents.  Both of us were quite nervous and grateful that it worked out.  I think Heavenly Father was watching over us. 

The next task was getting hooked up to the mooring ball.  With current and wind, and our high bow, getting lined up with the mooring ball and attaching a line would be a challenge.  Madison and I were on the bow ready for the task, I had given Madison the 5 second run down on what we were going to do, when the guy from the trawler comes riding up in his dinghy and says “throw me your line and I’ll feed it through the mooring line for you!”  He fed in both of our lines and we were attached that easy!  That was so kind of him.  He didn’t have to come help us, in fact he could have just stayed on his boat and watched the show I am sure it would have been, as it would have taken us awhile to get hooked to the mooring ball.  But he hoped over in his dinghy and was a HUGE help to us.  Later that night after getting settled David and the kids took him and his wife a plate of cookies to thank him.  IMG_7706

Later the next day he and his wife stopped over.  We chatted for a bit and laughed about the close call with the boats and explained our one engine dilemma, and he and David talked about how to the get the line out of our prop.  He offered to come back in a bit and help David dive under the boat to get it out.  It turns out that He is from Poland, and his wife from Puerto Rico.  They swung back by a little later to help David, but David had used the hack saw and that worked to get the line out.  We invited them over to dinner that evening.IMG_7707

 

 

 

 

While David was working on the props, the baby took his morning nap, and Madison and I took the rest of the kids for a fun little hike on shore.  We hiked to the top of the peak on the island, not high up, but a beautiful view from the top, it’s called Boo Boo Hill. The island lore is that off the east coast of the cay many years ago a ship sank taking with it hundreds of slaves.  They say that if you come to the top of Boo Boo Hill at night you can hear the slaves singing.

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To get to the top the trail passes thru a mangrove canal.  At first it started with rock hopping over small amounts of water.  Savannah was helping Matthew and they slipped and fell in the water.  They were upset that they had gotten all wet.  Then we reached the open mangrove area—and to continue on the canal we had to swim, well the kids had to swim, it was waist high on Madison and I.  We weren’t even wearing swim suits, the volunteer park rangers had mentioned anything about the hike being more water than dirt! 

We were having a great time, swimming in our clothes trying to reach Boo Boo Hill.

 

 

 

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At the very top is a beautiful view of the anchorage, the path we had come, and the sound on the East side of the island.  Over the years, boaters would bring a piece of driftwood with they boat name on it and date and leave it at the top of Boo Boo Hill as a memory.  There is quite a large pile now. IMG_7758IMG_7750

Near the top are a few blowholes, and those were a lot of fun.  Small little holes, about 6 inches wide in the ground and then they narrow under the surface, sort of like a funnel.  Under us along the seashore are caves.  When the waves crash thru the caves the air is blown with tremendous force up these holes.  I was expecting a spray like a whale’s blow hole, but mostly air with a little mist came up.  But the air came at such a tremendous force—enough to blow our hair straight up.  If a little water came with it, the spray would sting our faces as it hit it.  Each blow was quite surprising and a lot of fun!.  We stood over the hole for awhile anxiously awaiting another blow.  IMG_7759

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It was so exhilarating, like a roller coaster ride, just waiting for the next blow.  Savannah and Calvin walked a little closer to the side of the hill where the waves were crashing listening to them crash, and then a couple of big ones hit and sprayed up over the hill at us.  We had a great morning up there. Matthew didn’t like the Blow holes so he sat on a rock and patiently waited while we kept playing.  When Benjamin was done he went to sit with him.

On the way back we ran into David trying to make his way to us.  He had finished up his prop tangle, and had dressed to come meet us on the hike.  He didn’t know either that it was a “water” hike, so he got stopped as the trail became less ground and more water.  He was wearing his regular shoes and socks, and not interested in getting them all wet.  We were of course soaked by the time we found him, having crossed the deep part of the hike again.IMG_7786

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When we reached the ranger station and headed down to our tender we found a nurse shark waiting off the dock.  Savannah and Calvin and Isabel were wanting to swim back to the boat, but had a moment of Shark fear.  They have swam with nurse sharks around them numerous times, so I am not sure why they got a little scared this time.  But Isabel jumped and started her swim.  She was headed out to the boat and saw Savannah and Calvin had chickened out and so she got a little nervous.  The current was going the other way at this time so she had to swim across it to get back to us.  She did a great job.  We loaded into the tender, and made Savannah and Calvin swim back since they left their sister alone.  We all made it back to the boat safely.

For the afternoon we decided to pack a lunch and head to find a beach on the south east end of the island.  But when we got there, the current made it so we couldn’t land the tender there, so we went over to the south west side and found a beautiful beach there to picnic and play for a few hours.  We brought Jessie along and she loved running and playing in the water and sand.

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We headed back to the boat after a few hours to go for a snorkel and start dinner, but the kids still wanted to play in the sand more, so we dropped the older ones off at the sand bar near the boat where we could easily see them from the boat and the little ones took a shower and nap.

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Madison and I were able to swim off the boat to a small coral area about 100 feet from the boat.  While snorkeling we saw 3 spotted eagle rays swim by us.  They were amazing to watch and just so big, maybe 5-6 feet wide.  DSCN2475

Friday, December 14, 2012

Driftwood Beach, Shroud Cay

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We pulled up anchor at Highbourne and headed south.  We planned to make a short stop at Shroud Cay to hike to Driftwood Beach.  However, the winds had picked up as a front was passing, and with heavy winds from the north the anchorage at Shroud Cay was quite rocky.  We cancelled our stop there due to the weather, and were continuing on, when David suggested we anchor at a small Cay about 1 mile away from Shroud.  We could hide behind the small Cay from the waves and anchor the boat in calmer waves.  Then we would have to take the new tender to Shroud Cay.  We had planned to take the smaller dinghy, because to get to Driftwood Beach you have to pass through a small mangrove creek.  Tide was going out and we worried that the larger tender would be too deep of a draft on the shallow creek.  But since we anchored further away, and it was quite choppy water to get to the cay, our only choice was to take the larger tender. 

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We made it across the banks to the Cay and the creek.  We made it through the creek with good depths and landed at this tiny beach just before a small cut out to the sound side of the cay.  We beached the tender and walked around the corner of the beach, to this long stretch of sand.  The waves were crashing along this side of the beach, it was a beautiful site.  We were greeted at Driftwood beach by a sticky figurine.  We walked down the beach until we came to a path leading to the top of the hill.  We hiked up to the top to enjoy the beautiful view of the beach before us and the mangrove creeks behind us.  I am so glad we stopped and found a way to visit this beautiful area.  I wished we’d packed a lunch and swim suits and boogie boards to spend the day.  But the tide was still dropping and we wanted to make sure we did not get stuck there till it came back in.  Although, this would have been a great place to get stuck!  I plan to go back someday, in fact I plan to visit all of the Exhuma’s again.  It is gorgeous here!

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